It was sunny the afternoon
that we left Great Wolf Lodge. The rays beamed down like the branding on a
sweetened cereal box. The parking lot was filled with bleary-eyed parents and
spring-loaded youth. Two kids from a family parked next to us jockeyed for
front-seat position in their suburban. “Never mind the law; the objective is to
get everyone loaded in without injury,” the father explained to his
blond-haired bride. And if that meant that eight year-old Cayden had to sit in
the front seat and risk decapitation by an over-zealous airbag, well, that is
just the sort of risk that makes family vacation fun. I watched in awe as they
backed out of the parking space next to ours, their stick figure family-of-six
bumper sticker waving menacingly as they drove away.
I sighed as I strapped our two
year-old into his five-point harnessed car seat, gently tucking his soft golden
hair behind one ear. “Let GO!” he screamed, and clocked me with his wizard
wand.
Oh, did I not mention that we
bought him a wizard wand, too? Because that’s exactly what a two year-old that
was birthed in karate-chop stance needs: a toy shaped like a miniature bo.
As GWL grew smaller in the
rearview mirror, by stomach began to growl. Our breakfast of lattes and
Starbucks almonds (for Joe and I), cotton candy ice cream (we had a coupon) for
August and peanut butter and chocolate rice crispy treat for Henry (it had
CEREAL in it) was not as sustaining as I hoped it would be. We needed
nourishment; something that would not maintain its shape after a nuclear
attack. We needed
“Arby’s? Taco Bell?” Joe
asked.
“Arby’s has turkey wraps. At
least we can pretend we’re eating healthy.” I ordered the Reuben and the kids
each got something the menu called a Roast Beef sandwich. As my daughter took
her first bite and what passed as meat spilled onto her lap, I had a vegetarian
moment. So this is what it must be like to not eat meat; when the look of it
reminds you of a carcass floating in a canal and makes you crave anything
without a spinal cord.
“Who wants Arby sauce?”
Highway 101 took us through
pastures and farmland and abandoned barns with five-foot high water marks.
“From the flood, remember?” Joe said. It
was quiet. Posters for Rob McKenna for Governor dotted the landscape; propped
up in yards next to pinwheels and pink flamingos, staked next to shiny new
motorhomes, looming over the tops of swaying grass on the highway’s edge. It
felt like political pornography to me; lewd obstructions into my fantasy world
of empty grassland and Walden-like woods free of humans. I wanted to roll down
my window and scream at them to get a fucking room. But I couldn’t do that,
what with the children and all. This is
not your fantasy world, people live here, I thought. This was America—land
of the free—after all. And people could live wherever they damn well pleased.

The scenery was changing: from
pasture to marshland. Birds swooped low, beaks agape. August was becoming
frustrated at the lack of internet access on my Kindle. She needed Smurfberries
for her Smurf kingdom. One cannot get Smurfberries without being connected to
the internet. I had discovered this the day before when, as I was changing my
Facebook status on my phone, I had an e-mail notification. It was Amazon. It
was thanking me for my recent purchase of thirty-five dollars’ worth of
Smurfberries. I turned to my dear, sweet, five year-old and asked, “Did you
really just buy something on my Kindle?” Oh, how the tears ran. But now that
the tears had already been shed, her penance paid, how could we be so cruel as
to not allow her internet access to use her Smurfberries?
Because we were the
worst parents in the universe, that’s why.
As the marshes turned into
lakes that would carry us to the Pacific, the sky began to gray. “Don’t worry,”
Joe said, “it will burn off by the time we hit Long Beach.” The gray turned
into streaks of blue, blustery clouds and the rain began fall. It hit our
windshield like the scattered applause of an uncertain audience. Henry had just
dozed off in his car seat. August was staring out the window, a My Little Pony
gripped in each hand. I tried to remain positive: this is the Northwest. It
rains. It sometimes rains on my vacation. But this was the end of August and
scientific data, statistics, and Joe’s bartending schedule had predicted that
it would be a sunny, laugh-filled weekend. Also, we were staying at a
campground which meant that we were supposed to cook our food outdoors.
We planned a trip to a grocery
store in Ilwaco that the Cape Disappointment website boasted would meet all of
our camping needs. It was going to be a hot dog and hot chocolate kind of
night; the children would be snuggled warmly against our shoulders as we told
outdoor adventure stories of our youth peppered with euphemisms and lacking
details that would not be caught by innocent ears. Not only were we supposed to
have the chance to exercise our superb parenting skills, but we would, in the
process, stoke a bit of sweetness between husband and wife. Joe would glance up
at me during the key moment of a story and, catching my eye, would wink at how
funny the story really was. And the children would be none the wiser.
But the rain didn’t stop
there—it invited its asshole friend wind to come along and crash our party. By
the time we had driven through all six blocks of Ilwaco and had only found a
glorified bait and tackle shop and a shuttered downtown corridor, I was on the
verge of an all-out, teary, teenaged-style meltdown. Joe placed his hand on my
leg and tried to reassure me. That did not help things.
Memories of camping trips and
California beaches of my youth came rushing in. They rushed right out of me
from my eyeballs and I gave in to my urge to blame Joe for the weather. For
living in Washington. For not being millionaires. For people living where they
shouldn’t be. For booking our vacation in goddamn fucking Cape Disappointment.
His emergency response was to
find the nearest organic-looking grocer that he could find, a few miles up the
road in Long Beach. “You stay here,” he told me. He took August into the store
with him for provisions. I felt awful. If anyone were to ever tell me that Joe
was anything less than perfect for me, they would be punched in the face.
The rain continued that night,
and we ended up eating at a faux-Outback steakhouse in Long Beach. Our children
were rowdy and the servers whispered awful nothings about us behind the
register. By the time we reached our yurt (which was an awesome, teepee-like
super tent with bunk beds and a heater) I was ready to bust out a bottle of
wine.
The kids were ecstatic about
our new quarters. Within half an hour Henry had scaled the bunk bed and was
throwing Barbie from its top to her death below. He was in the process of
mastering a few small sentences, but this one was unmistakable: “No, no! Oh no
Barbie! Ahhhhhhhh!!!” Plunk. There is
still time to instill some feminist virtues, I thought, no need to panic. August was busying herself with setting up shop and Joe was
uncorking my bottle of wine; this yurt would do just fine.
The sun peeked out just long
enough for us to hike the quarter mile to the beach. The black and sparkling
sand gave way to an angry ocean. White-washed timber littered the shore. We all
stood facing the horizon, paralyzed by its immensity.
“That ocean is not like the
one in California. It does not want to be your friend, don’t try to go into
it,” I said to August.
“It’s angry,” she said.
“Yes. It’s angry.”
Contrary to the weather
report, the next morning was bright and crisp. We spent the day hiking through
trailheads of Louis and Clark and building sandcastles and flying kites at
Waikiki Beach, an ironically named but more hospitable version of a beach than
the night before. We were all deliciously tired, sandy, and happy by day’s end.
We had our hot dogs and
campfire that night. Joe winked at me after taking a swig from his beer. An
expression of accomplishment settled onto his face. When we turned into our yurt,
the kids snuggled into their sleeping bags, eagerly awaiting the shadow puppet
show that Joe was about to perform.
“Ladies and gentlemen,” he
said, his flashlight beaming to the roof, “Introducing…what the hell! Agh!” Joe
leaped to the side of the room and grabbed the broom in one fell swoop.
“What?” I asked.
“Don’t. Move.”
Of course I moved. “What is
it?”
His flashlight slowly went up
to the top of the yurt, right below the sky light. There, minding its own
business, terribly irritated that we had disturbed its peaceful repose, was a
bat.
“Oh! It’s cute!” I squealed.
“We have to get it out of
here. We can’t sleep with a bat.”
“Don’t hurt it! It’s good for
the environment,” I said.
The kids thought that this was
an amazing turn of events. Joe pulled his hoody strings tight so that only his
glasses and nose were peeking through the hole, and with a broom, tried gently
to coax the bat out the door in wide, arcing strokes. We would get our show
after all.
The bat escaped through some
hole in the yurt, whether or not it made its way outside we’ll never know.
Every scrape and bump I heard that night I ducked beneath the covers, or I
roused Joe awake to ask him if he had heard it. August and Henry slept soundly,
oblivious to the possibility of rabies or nibbled eyelashes. I laid awake,
thinking about how this was exactly how parenting was. We get stuck in the dark
with things that we perceive as harmful, and the only tools we have
are a hoody and a broom. In reality, we’re all just trying to make sense of
things and survive. And perhaps be happy, while we’re at it.
We can’t wait for next year’s
vacation.